Basement Remodeling

February 24, 2010

Finish your basement with less dust and save your furnace

Filed under: Basement remodeling design and planning, HVAC (Heating & Cooling), Products and Supplies, basement ideas — Tags: , , , , — Basements @ 7:13 pm

When finishing a basement there is going to be dust spread throughout the house. It travels through the air and in the vents and on the shoes of the workers coming in and out of the basement. It comes mainly from rough framing, concrete demolition, installing insulation, drywall, interior trim and painting. There are ways you can help control the levels of dust in your home during the project.

Keep the dust down

Make sure that you or your basement contractor take these steps before starting the remodeling work.

Move all personal belongings out of the basement. If there is no room and they have to stay in the basement move them into an area that is not being finished and cover them well with plastic. It’s also good to hang plastic over the crawl space openings and Install a wall of plastic around the mechanicals area (furnace, hot water tank, etc.). Make sure when you do this that you leave enough room for the furnace and other gas appliances to breath. Stay at least 4 ft away from all of the mechanicals. You can also buy a system called a    ZipWall   that makes it easy to block off areas from dust.

Make sure the door at the top of the stairs is always kept closed when not in use. Open a basement window and place a fan in the window blowing out. This will create a vacuum in the room and blow a majority of the dust outside. Then when the door on the upstairs is opened the dust in the air will be drawn down and out the fan in the basement window instead of upstairs.

When installing the return air lines in the basement make sure you stuff a towel into the opening or tape them off with duct tape. Otherwise your sending all that dust and debris straight into the furnace and throughout your home. Make sure to remove the towel or tape when the basement remodeling is complete then you can install the return air grills

Change your furnace filter several times throughout the project. It is best to change the filter once after the drywall is done, after the painting and after carpet and your final cleaning. This will help cut down on dust in the upstairs and save your furnace. When all that dust gets into the furnace it gets into the blower motor and burns it up.

And finally when your basement is done hire a professional duct cleaning company. They will come and vacuum out the all the construction dust in the air supply and return lines in your furnace. Otherwise you might be seeing dust in your house for the next several months after the project is completed.

For more information on basement remodeling explore  BasementSource.com

January 25, 2010

Egress Windows

Filed under: Basement, Basement remodeling design and planning, Egress Windows, Fire protection & Safety, Uncategorized, basement ideas, basement remodeling images — Tags: , , , , , , — Basements @ 9:38 pm

Are you considering basement remodeling? You should be aware of your local building codes egress requirements. Most municipalities are now requiring emergency exit from the basement and proper emergency entry by firemen and rescue workers in the event of a basement fire. Installing a Egress Window not only allow natural light into your basement but more importantly it will provide a safety escape for you and your family and meet your local basement egress window requirements. The best installation option is to choose a contractor that is familiar with the local codes to be sure you are meeting the requirements. The following information should give you a general idea of the requirements.
  

Building Planning Codes
IRC Code Section R310
  


R310.1 Emergency escape and rescue required. Basements and every sleeping room shall have at least one operable emergency and rescue opening. Such opening shall open directly into a public street, public alley, yard or court. Where basements contain one or more sleeping rooms, emergency egress and rescue openings shall be required in each sleeping room, but shall not be required in adjoining areas of the basement. Where emergency escape and rescue openings are provided they shall have a sill height of not more than 44 inches (1118 mm) above the floor. Where a door opening having a threshold below the adjacent ground elevation serves as an emergency escape and rescue opening and is provided with a bulkhead enclosure, the bulkhead enclosure shall comply with Section R310.3. The net clear opening dimensions required by this section shall be obtained by the normal operation of the emergency escape and rescue opening from the inside. Emergency escape and rescue openings with a finished sill height below the adjacent ground elevation shall be provided with a window well in accordance with Section R310.2. Emergency escape 52 2006 INTERNATIONAL RESIDENTIAL CODE® and rescue openings shall open directly into a public way, or to a yard or court that opens to a public way.
  

  

Exception: The ladder or steps required by SectionR310.2.1 shall be permitted to encroach a maximum of 6 inches (152 mm) into the required dimensions of the window well.
  

R310.2.1 Ladder and steps. Window wells with a vertical depth greater than 44 inches (1118 mm) shall be equipped with a permanently affixed ladder or steps usable with the window in the fully open position. Ladders or steps required by this section shall not be required to comply with Sections R311.5 and R311.6. Ladders or rungs shall have an inside width of at least 12 inches (305 mm), shall project at least 3 inches (76 mm) from the wall and shall be spaced not more than 18 inches (457 mm) on center vertically for the full height of the window well.
  

R310.3 Bulkhead enclosures. Bulkhead enclosures shall provide direct access to the basement. The bulkhead enclosure with the door panels in the fully open position shall provide the minimum net clear opening required by Section R310.1.1. Bulkhead enclosures shall also comply with Section R311.5.8.2.
  

R310.4 Bars, grilles, covers and screens. Bars, grilles, covers, screens or similar devices are permitted to be placed over emergency escape and rescue openings, bulkhead enclosures, or window wells that serve such openings, provided the minimum net clear opening size complies with Exception: Basements used only to house mechanical equipment and not exceeding total floor area of 200 square feet (18.58 m2).
  

R310.1.1 Minimum opening area. All emergency escape and rescue openings shall have a minimum net clear opening of 5.7 square feet (0.530 m2).
  

Exception: Grade floor openings shall have a minimum net clear opening of 5 square feet (0.465 m2).
  

R310.1.2 Minimum opening height. The minimum net clear opening height shall be 24 inches (610 mm).
  

R310.1.3 Minimum opening width. The minimum net clear opening width shall be 20 inches (508 mm).
  

R310.1.4 Operational constraints. Emergency escape and rescue openings shall be operational from the inside of the room without the use of keys, tools or special knowledge.
  

R310.2 Window wells. The minimum horizontal area of the window well shall be 9 square feet (0.9 m2), with a minimum horizontal projection and width of 36 inches (914 mm). The area of the window well shall allow the emergency escape and rescue opening to be fully opened.
  

Sections R310.1.1 to R310.1.3, and such devices shall be releasable or removable from the inside without the use of a key, tool, special knowledge or force greater than that which is required for normal operation of the escape and rescue opening.
  

R310.5 Emergency escape windows under decks and porches. Emergency escape windows are allowed to be installed under decks and porches provided the location of the deck allows the emergency escape window to be fully opened and provides a path not less than 36 inches (914 mm) in height to a yard or court.  

** Always be sure to check your local building department to make sure you meet the local requirements**




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December 16, 2009

Basement Ideas – Insulation Materials and Installation

Filed under: Basement, HVAC (Heating & Cooling), Insulation, Products and Supplies, Tools — Tags: , , , , , , , — Basements @ 11:35 pm

Its a good idea to insulate your basement. This will help keep it at a stable temperature and  also help your home be more energy efficient saving you money. There are many different varieties of insulation materials. For example Fiberglass, Cellulose, Foam ,or Radiant Barrier Foil. The most popular for basement remodeling is fiberglass insulation. It’s usually purchased in bat’s or rolls. The Fiberglass bats come in bags that usually have pre cut lengths of about 8 feet. You can also buy it in 30 or 40 foot rolls and cut it yourself which is sometimes cheaper.

For basement remodeling in Ohio we normally use a R-13 insulation with vapor barrier. You can buy it at any or your local home improvement stores. Its also a good idea to check the local building codes before you get started on your basement remodel or purchasing any of the insualtion materials. Codes usually vary from city to city.

**Before installing the insulation you need to make sure you have completed the framing, rough electric & low voltage, rough plumbing, and HVAC work, and fire stopping.

When installing the insulation you will need the following.

  • Dust mask  ( You’ll need these for drywall too )
  • Razor knife
  • Stapler or Smack Stapler
  • Tape measure
  • Rubber Gloves

We normally wear long pants and long sleeve shirts because it will irritate the skin. If it gets on your skin rinse and soap with cold water. This will help to avoid opening the pores on your skin.

You install the insulation in between all of the joist spaces on the framed walls. Sometimes you need to cut both the length and width to get them to fit. You never want to make the insulation packed into the space or touching the concrete wall. If it’s too tight you will lose the insulation R-value and if it touches the concrete wall it could pick up moisture and create a mold issue.

If you want to install insulation in the ceiling it will help to control noise transfer to the upstairs. This is always a good idea if your installing a home theater or media room. You will need to remove the paper vapor barrier from the insulation or buy it unfaced. That keeps from having any extra combustible materials inside the ceiling cavities.

Normally after we finish the rolled insulation we go back and fill all the corner joints on the wall framing and around windows or doors with spray foam insulation. Just make sure to buy the spray foam for doors and windows. Otherwise it can expand too much and cause you doors or windows to not open or close properly.

Once your insulation is done your ready for drywall.

December 15, 2009

Basement Safety and Fire Prevention

Filed under: Basement, Electric & Low Voltage Final, Fire protection & Safety, Rough Electrical — Tags: , , , , , , — Basements @ 10:44 pm

Just like your kitchen and garage basements can also be a place for dangerous  fire hazards, carbon monoxide poisoning, and gas leaks. When you remodel your basement there are some things you can do to help make it safer.

 The first is make sure you follow all of the local codes to ensure everything you do is safe. This will help lower the odds of having an electrical fire due to poor or improper installation of outlets, switches, breakers or light fixtures. Electrical circuits that are overused can be a serious fire hazard. Never bypass a circuit breaker which would create a potential fire risk. If a circuit breaker keeps blowing the fuse find the problem and fix it before you move on. If the fuse blows there is likely a hazard. It is important that appliances like microwaves, air conditioners, fridges, and freezers each get their own circuit to avoid overload. For more help you can try this book Complete Guide to Wiring  it should help you with your electrical questions from start to finish.

When completing your rough electrical make sure you install Smoke Detectors in the basement and connect them to the rest of the house if possible. That way if there is a fire in the basement it will also set off the smoke alarms upstairs and in your bedrooms. The manufacturer Kidde also makes a Smoke Detector w/Voice Warning & Combination Carbon Monoxide Detector which is the model I now use when finishing basements.

You can also take advantage of this time to hardwire in a Carbon Monoxide detector. You can also install a plug in wall mount Carbon Monoxide detector after the basement is finished. Either one could be a lifesaver if for some reason your furnace was working improperly and releasing this poisonous gas into the basement. You cannot see or smell the CO-2 and by time you realize there is a problem it may be too late especially if your kids are using the basement. You can also purchase a Gas Detector for natural gas leaks.

Whether your basement is finished or not you need to make sure it is free of other common fire hazards. Usually you can find materials like papers and plastics, and other misc combustible items in the basement and sometimes even flammable liquids. You need to make sure they are stored in a safe place in your basement, garage, or outside ( best place for flammable liquids or gases ). You should always keep a fire extinguiser in the basement for added protection.

The most important areas are the furnace room ,the electric panel, and hot water tanks. Never stack items within 3 feet of all sides of any of this equipment. The furnace and hot water tanks need room to breathe. This will help keep anything form igniting if the equipment  has a malfunction. Same goes for the electric panel as a malfunction there could also cause a fire. Do not keep any flammable liquids  in the equipment areas. Most of the fumes from flammable liquids are heavier than air and will accumulate low on the floor. The fumes would build up and sudden tiny spark from your furnace or hot water tank could set the fumes off in a violent explosion. A safer place for flammables is in your garage or outside in a storage shed. Where ever they are also keep them out of children’s reach.

Remember check your electrical, add smoke detectors - CO-2 detectors, Clean utility areas from combustible materials and keep any gas cans, lawn mowers, propane tanks, or other potential risks out of the basement all together if possible. Always have a Fire Extinguiser in the basement.

December 8, 2009

Waterproofing Basement Walls

Filed under: Basement, Basement Waterproofing — Tags: , , , — Basements @ 11:12 pm

Waterproofing a basement is important to keep your home dry and mold free especially if you plan on remodeling your basement. There are many different basement waterproofing systems and methods. The requirements on every home vary depending on if you have a wet or dry basement. The moisture issues most commonly found in older homes are on the inside of the foundation walls or floor. Most new construction uses some type of exterior foundation waterproofing that usually keeps the basements fairly dry. If your building a new home I would definitely recommend some type of foundation wall moisture barrier.  Before you begin with you interior fix make sure you check that your gutters & downspouts are clear all the way out to the curb. If you downspouts stop at the foundation you’ll need to get an extension to divert the water away from the foundation. Make sure the grade around the foundation slopes away from the house. Check for more tips at The National Association of Waterproofing.  When fixing interior walls one cheap and easy solution is a paint product called DRYLOCK made by UGL. You can just use a brush and heavy nap roller to apply the product to the masonry walls. They have many different products available depending on your situation.  You can see if this product is right for you by taping a 12inx12in piece of aluminum foil to the suspected wall. leave it for a few days. When you come back if there is moisture on the room side you have a condensation problem. If its wet on the inside that was facing the wall you have a seepage problem. Remember both problems can occur at the same time. If you have a condensation problem a dehumidifier should help.  If your basement is fairly dry and you just have a few damp spots or walls you might get by with the latex Drylock masonry waterproofer. You can buy it by the quart or the gallon. This formula is for waterproofing all interior, exterior, above or below grade masonry walls, cinder and concrete blocks, stucco, brick, retaining walls, basements, concrete swimming pools and foundations. No pre-mixing or pre-wetting necessary. You can even tint it to colors if you’d like.  If your basement walls are moist or leaky you might want to consider the Drylock Extreme Masonry Paint. This contains synthetic rubber and Portland cement which helps give the walls a much tougher barrier. It is a little more expensive and the fumes are much more intense. You’ll want to wear a respirator when using this stuff.  Both products can be applied to damp surfaces. First you want to make sure the walls are clean from rust, dirt, grease, or oil. Then make sure there are no Efflorescence, a (white, powdery, crystal-like deposit on the masonry surface). This must be removed with a wire brush and sometimes an acid wash. You will also need to patch any cracks or holes in the wall joints or floor. For this you can use DRYLOK® FAST PLUG a fast setting hydraulic cement. Make sure you dampen the area before applying the fast plug for a stronger patch. After thats all done your ready to paint. The coverage of the Drylock is about 50-75 sq ft per gallon. Ex. An eight foot tall wall that is 10 ft long is 80sq ft and would likely use more than one gallon. Find all of the tools you’ll need below. 


December 2, 2009

Basements and the hidden danger of Radon

Filed under: Basement, Radon in your Basement — Tags: , , , , , , , , — Basements @ 5:59 pm

Basements and the hidden danger of Radon

More and more people are turning towards finished basements especially now with the slow housing market. It’s a very cost effective way to take advantage of the extra space in your home. However there are some precautions you need to take when finishing a basement. Number one is Check for RADON. You cannot see, smell or taste it, but it could be lurking in your home.Most people don’t think at all about the danger of radon in their home. Radon is a radioactive cancer-causing gas. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (US EPA) and the Surgeon General’s office have estimated that as many as 20,000 lung cancer deaths are caused each year by radon. Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. The Surgeon General has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today. If your home has high radon levels, you’re at risk for developing lung cancer. There are scientific studies of radon exposure that indicate that children may be more sensitive to radon. Do you really want to expose your family or your children to this toxic hazard? You shouldn’t, it’s not worth the risk.

Testing is the only real way to know if your home has a radon problem. There are many different test kits that can be purchased online. If your homes radon levels are high there are many ways that you can fix it yourself fairly inexpensively. Here are some of the recommended test kits:

First Alert RD1 Radon Gas Test Kit
by First Alert

Professional Radon Gas Dual Canister Test Kit
by Accustar Lab

You can also purchase a radon gas detector
Safety Siren Pro Series 3 Radon Gas Detector # HS71512
by Pro Series

RADON CAN GET IN THROUGH:
Cracks in concrete floors
Crawl spaces cracks in walls
Sumpump opening gaps around service pipes
Cavities inside walls
Even the water supply

Radon is a national and global problem. The EPA estimates it in millions of home nationwide. Elevated radon level have been discovered in every state in the US. Check your state and see the results.

For more information visit the EPA or the following links 

EPA Radon Publications for Homeowners:

Consumers guide to radon

A citizens guide to radon

Health Risks

Is radon where you live

Source: http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/

September 17, 2009

Plans and Ideas for your Basement

Filed under: Basement, Basement remodeling design and planning, basement remodeling, finished basements — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , — Basements @ 3:36 am

Why not take advantage of  the usable space in your basement. Create a finished basement your family can enjoy and increasing the value of your home.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               

There are unlimited uses for a basement.  With the proper planning and design you can create a basement that is more fantastic than you ever dreamed.  Of course there are the costs of a basement remodel which can sometimes deter people from finishing their basement.  This is where many people decide on the do it yourself (DIY) method to save some money.  As long as you have a clear set budget of what you can afford then you have a good starting place for hiring a professional contractor.  Most basement contractors will give free estimates and will usually offer advice on what will work for your space.  This is always a good place to start gathering information and details on how the space will be put together and give you good ideas on what you may want to include in your basement. The best place to start is with the book Basement Ideas. It will help you with all aspects of your basement remodeling project.

The first question to ask yourself is who the space is for.  Is it for a kid’s playroom? An entertainment area for the parents? An in-law suite? or add a basement bathroom  Figure out who the space is for and from there you can start to figure out the layout and how the rooms will flow together. Most basements are cut up and have mechanical’s and  things you will have to move or design around.  Your basement contractor can help with this or you can always hire a basement design expert if you really need help.

Below is a list of basement ideas that you check and see which of them you would like to have when you finish your basement.

 

                          Wine bar                              Basement with wine bar

Home Office, Closets & storage, Sauna, Bedroom, Children’s play area  ,Bathroom, Exercise room, Home Theater  , Hobby area, Workshop, Laundry room, Wine storage, Wet Bar, Pool room, In-Law suite

This is just a fraction of the many ideas for your basement plans. 

July 1, 2008

Do you have rough plumbing for a bath in your basement? If not we have an easy fix

Filed under: Basement, Rough Plumbing, basement bathrooms & accessories, basement remodeling, finished basements — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , — Basements @ 3:52 am

Many people want to have basement remodeling done to add extra living space. Do you want a bathroom in your basement? Many times what they find out is that the house they live in the basement was never roughed in for a bathroom. Normally you would have to have your basement contractor or plumber jackhammer or saw cut the concrete floor to run the new sewer lines into the existing system and then put the concrete back. Doing that is not only costly but its also very messy. There are new systems that can save you money and spare you from the dirty work of tearing up the concrete. The Saniflo Saniplus can be built into a wall cavity in the basement concealed behind the framing system. The Saniplus is a system that is used to install a complete bathroom in a basement up to 9 feet below the sewer line, or even up to 100 feet away from a soil stack without breaking up the concrete. You can have a toilet, vanity, and shower unit all hooked up to this unit. To find out more about the system including the cost or to purchase your own systemread below.

The Saniplus includes the macerating unit toilet tank and bowl but no seat.Since the reservoir, the macerating pump and the pipes are hidden from view, this type of installation gives you the lean and clean look of a European bathroom or powder room. The toilet uses only 6 liters (1.6 USG) of water per flush. The Saniplus is simplicity itself to install; there are just four connections:

  • The macerating pump is connected to the discharge pipe coming from the toilet.
  • The toilet tank is connected to the water supply.
  • The macerating pump is connected to small diameter discharge pipe work.
  • The macerating pump is connected to electrical supply.

If you want to conceal the unit in the wall you will need the extension also.

The Saniplus macerating system is comprised of a pressure chamber, which starts and stops the unit, and the motor, which drives the stainless steel macerator blades and pump. To learn more about the macerating process please refer to What is a macerator? A normal operating cycle for Saniplus takes about 10–20 seconds depending upon the discharge pipe run configuration; power consumption is therefore minimal.

You can find out other detailed information, specs, and other helpful products at Saniflo.com. If you are interested in purchasing one, Amazon.com carries both the SaniPlus Macerator Toilet with Elongated Bowl and the SaniPlus Macerator Toilet with Round Bowl.

Remember when doing basement remodeling always do you own research before choosing the products you will use and make sure
that they are right for your job. If you need help try this book or hire a competent basement contractor to help you with these decisions.

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